highlight of the trip

Memorable moments occur in some of the strangest places. China holds so many possible highlights - Terra-cotta Warriors, Li River, Great Wall, Three Gorges. Ours will be from a little town called Fuli; an ancient city about an hour bike ride from Yangshou. In the travel book, Fuli was thrown in almost as if it were an afterthought; a side trip if you had time. It was described as an ancient city built in the Song Dynasty (around 900 AD) that has maintained it's original buildings and streets.

It actually isn't much to look at especially if you don't know what to look for in an ancient city but the people were spectacular - especially this group:

These ladies are the self appointed mayors of Fuli. The senior ladies council set up a 3 yuan fee (about $0.50) to enter the water front "street" and temple. The fee is to help restoration and upkeep of their limited sites. The ladies were so excited to have visitors. It was like walking into a grandmother's kitchen when the cinnamon buns are coming out of the oven. They showed us an authentic and warm welcome with open arms. They escorted us through their two room temple, explained everything to us in Chinese as if we understood, animatedly encouraged us to take pictures, and for the grande finale, sang and danced for us. Throughout the 10 minute tour they smiled and laughed while they lead me by hand to see the sparely decorated and rundown rooms of their temple. It was fantastic. And they didn't try to sell us anything. Not one postcard, purse, bag, watch, painting - nothing. Just happy to show off their town. As an added bonus, there was only one other tourist there who I'm sure just received the same hospitality.

We also got a tour of this woman's house.

It was so tiny. One little bed in a separate room, kitchen with a wood stove in the back. When we walked into the house I noticed that she was making children's shoes so we asked her if we could buy a pair. She gladly gave us a price of 10 yuan ($1.50). For once I wished that I had given her more. After two months of being overcharged for everything because I'm a foreigner, it was so refreshing to get an honest price.

The ride to and from the town was also spectacular. People tilling the rice paddies with their water buffalo, orange trees and bok choy growing by the side of the road, mountains or what they call karsts as a backdrop to all the daily bustle of rural China.

Even our tour guide backed off a bit and let us explore a little on our own. We have been over handled by Hu, our Guilin tour guide, who repeats everything three times. We was reluctant to take us to Fuli but in the end it was the best part of our time here in Yangshou county.

And almost forgot, the Li River cruise was also nice - wet, but nice.

Off to Chongqing and the Three Gorges today. Good-bye Fuli. Good luck senior women's council in keeping your little community alive and authentic. You are the best China has to offer. Don't let tourism change you.