Monday 24 December 2012

Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary

We're on the last stop of India Tour 2012.  There is no doubt in my mind that I will be back. I always doubted that I would like it here but India is so much more than Delhi and Mumbai.  Even those places had their charm.

Right now we are on the edge of Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary. There are Kingfishers, egrets, snake neck birds, heaps of cormorants and a few others I don't know the names of. Not to mention butterflies, flowers and a curious lake otter that bobbed up to say hi this morning. It is paradise here in Kerala.

View of our room
Snake neck bird - crane? stork? 

This morning we took a tour to taste a toddy. If I'm not sick from that tomorrow then I know my system has adjusted to Indian microflora. A toddy, or coconut palm wine, is an alcoholic drink made from coconut flowers mixed with "mud" and allowed to ferment.  I have to say ours didn't taste fermented enough so we'll see how that goes.

We enjoyed a lovely canoe ride and then walk back to the village, stopping along the way to look at local flowers, agriculture and of course the beautiful friendly people.  Once you smile they are all smiles.  It is a beautiful life here despite the lack of easy access to fresh (safe) water. It is getting better but I have seen countless people take sips from the river while bathing. 

A walk through the village
Tonight we have tea and watch the flying foxes but for now it is a pool and spa day. Love it here. The service is outstanding, people are friendly and in the country, the scenery is lush and beautiful.  Now I see why people fall in love with India.


Tea time

Sunset view while having tea


Sunrise from the yoga platform



Hotel walkway and cabins

My view for the next few days

Monday 10 December 2012

Kerala Backwaters - WOW.

Kerala region brands itself as God's own Country. They are not wrong.  Since time is running short, here's the photo travel tale.  first stop was a beach side resort called Marari Beach Resort. It is located on the coast of the Arabian Sea. This beautiful resort has been eco-friendly since the 50's. I got my first Indian Ayuvedic massage. Now there is an interesting experience.  I'll save that one for an in-person tale.



Flying into Kerala

In the Butterfly garden
Marari resort grounds

Then it was time to hit the backwater in a rice barge houseboat.





We had one of these bad boys overnight. But to get into the smaller canals/villages we had a smaller canoe. The only downside was the diesel. Hopefully they will convert because the local people rely on the water for bathing, washing, cooking and fishing.  They are being overrun by this oily slick on the water.


 
Of course no cruise is complete without a Kingfisher waiting for the sunset.
 

 

And sunset did not disappoint.  Lovely evening with an equally peaceful morning.  Time to head back to land for the last leg of India tour 2012.


 

Friday 7 December 2012

Amazing Race around India


Where do I even begin? Since Chandigarh and the ag show we have been to Delhi, Mumbai and are now on the road to the beach resort in the Kerala region.  I can’t say it has been smooth sailing. We missed our flight check in time by a couple minutes flying out of Chandigarh so had to book onto another flight 3 hours later for a very late arrival in Delhi for a 10pm supper. Out of Delhi to Mumbai the flight was delayed by “technical difficulties” resulting in a near riot from some of the passengers and another 3 hour delay for a 3 am arrival to the hotel. And today another 2 hour delay due to more “technical difficulties”, which quite frankly starts to become a bit concerning, for arrival into Cochin at rush hour turning what should be a 2 hour drive into a 3 ½ hour journey. It is no wondered people meditate in this country.  So travel is not all glory. But now the real holiday begins.


And last complaint then I’ll get onto some fun stuff – you would think that I would be caught up on writing and work because of all the airport waiting time but you require a mobile number to get the password to get onto the internet.  Because why would you make access to the Internet easy at an international airport in the business hubs of the country.  There’s a little work to be done related to efficiencies and conveniences.


Ok – recap of the last week. Agro Tech was huge. Lots of interest around Canadian food products and lots of progressive farmers in the region. That said, lots of work on the previous mentioned efficiencies is also in order. Met a lot of really interesting people.   The hospitality in the region is outstanding and Chandigarh turned out to be a really interesting place. First planned city in India which just means that the chaos follows a grid pattern, the traffic and the cows however are still generally all over the place. We said good-bye to our armed guard, Victor and driver. I still can’t remember the driver’s name so would resort to Mr. Singh (the Indian version of Mr. Smith).  In fact, I’ve been completely hopeless with names. I’m not great at it to begin with so add in an accent, rapid fire speech and a three syllable name that I’ve never heard of before and it turns into a lot of smiling and nodding.

In Delhi I went down for the count. I was starting to feel a little off in Chandigarh so by morning in Delhi I definitely knew something wasn’t right. ‘nough said.  I’m still not 100% but getting there through the power of pharmaceuticals and probiotics.  Delhi was a bit of a surprise in terms of greenery. They have large forests throughout the city – protected green spaces. We didn’t see a lot but did a bit of shopping (beautiful scarves and clothes), drove past the Red Fort and old Delhi then headed to the airport for our delayed flight.


Mumbai – also a surprise.  Gorgeous old building but really run down. For some reason I pictured it to be more Hong Kong like with tall high rises. Maybe up in the Bollywood area. But it was a mix with many of the old buildings crumbling away.  We stayed at the Taj Mahal – the same Taj that was attacked in 2008.  It is spectacular with stunning flower bouquets and marble floors. Wow.


Again, not a lot of time for sightseeing but lots to see on the way to a meeting at the Canadian Embassy, to dinner and to the airport.  Dinner last night was with a celebrity chef’s restaurant up near Bollywood by the Beach.  Chef Vicky dropped by and ordered up some of his favourite appetizers for us. Supper in India doesn’t happen until 9 or 10 pm, lunch around 2pm. Makes for some really late nights and early mornings.  
But we are now at a Ayurveda beach resort with 7am yoga on the beach.  Unfortunately we are on the move again, headed to the houseboat at noon and then the next day to a bird sanctuary resort. It really is Amazing Race style with about the same luck with communication sometimes. It is frustrating at times because I want to see as much as possible but nothing happens quickly. So time to get my zen on.  7 am is right around the corner.

Saturday 1 December 2012

Head for the Hills

Yesterday was a déjà vu.  I was up early and ready to head for the mountains with my travel mate and then got the news that she was down for the count with "something".  The food microbiologist in me kicked in and tried to figure out if and when I would be hit as well but we determined it was the ice in her drink. Long live bottled beer I say. So I did what I've done before and headed off on my own to Shimla - an Indian Banff.

The drive alone was entertaining. And by entertaining I liken it to any terror ride in Disney World plus the Amazing Race.  Switch back highway complete with sheer cliffs, passing on a blind curve and random cows (those make it really exciting). 

But we finally reached the village of Shimla; the summer capital of British India. Cute place. Outlawed smoking AND spitting in public. Love it.

The biggest challenge of the day was making sure the driver knew where to pick me up. The biggest issue is that drivers will say "okay" when they really mean" I have no clue what you are saying you crazy person". I try to be clear but there are only so many ways you can say the same thing and point at the map.  The biggest problem this time was he couldn't believe I wanted to walk 2 km when I had a perfectly good (and paid for) car. But after 10 minutes I finally figured what is the worst that could happen and left the driver at one end of the mall, hoping to see him two hours later at our meeting spot. Clearly it all worked out.

So I walked the Mall to my lunch spot overlooking the Himalayas (so unreal) and finally met my driver at our appointed place.  I think he was more relieved than me because my parting words were "don't lose me". Clearly he understood that. Or the desperate tone.

The town was really unique and steep. They actually have an elevator to take to from the Mall back to the main traffic street. A very sketchy and small elevator.  But all in all, a very good outing.  I'll wait until I'm home to post the video.


Langur monkeys


Shimla

The start of the walk along the Mall
 

The Mall shopping area - and yes I did some Christmas shopping
 
My view at lunch

Sightseeing

Yes this is a work trip and the conference starts today BUT I've never been one to miss a chance to see what's around be it Vietnam, India or Nebraska.  So with a little downtime I've been able to take in some famous sights around Chandigarh.  The one highlight that I really wanted to see was the Nek Chand's Rock Gardens.  This 40 acre park is the coolest man-made park I've ever seen.  You can get the full story on line but here are a couple signs from the garden about the start of the garden or this website (http://www.nekchand.com/).




The whole park has been constructed into one giant art project. The walls have been built and inlaid with natural and man-made recycled materials with sculptures and shaped rocks everywhere. He even shaped roots and branches.

 
When I read about this park I just thought it would be a few thousand sculptures scattered throughout the park so this labyrinth of rock walls and waterfalls was outstanding.  But the sculptures were really the highlight and very creative.
 
 
But the sculptures weren't the only highlight it seems.  Add two foreigners and a bus load of school children and the park no longer is the attraction. It started off in a polite orderly fashion but degraded into pushing frenzy once the boys got involved.  
 


I would like to go back in the morning if I get time.  We lost light right at the best part at the end. 
Plus every time I stopped kids would gather to get another photo so it would be nice to go back minus the fans.