On the move

We are bumping down the road in our ‘luxury” bus from Siem Reap – a 314 km bus ride that takes 6 or 7 hours. The air-conditioning is no more than vented outside air which means I’m going to land in Phnom Penh with a sweaty butt and huge hair.

And while I’m complaining about stuff, I just have to say that despite the amazing things we’ve seen and done, it is not been without its challenges. Peter is just coming back from some dysentery-like ailment – we first suspected heat exhaustion but when rehydration and cold towels (not a popular treatment) didn’t fix some of the more unpleasant symptoms, out came the antibiotic stash resulting in some initial success. I suspect it was the spider but he refuses to engage in a thorough analysis, much to my inner microbiologist dismay. I have been relatively illness free although my quest to remain that way has resulted in a steady diet of things fried beyond recognition. Every time I order a fresh meal I mentally calculate how long it will take for the possible illness to ensue. And I’m at risk of dehydration because the bathrooms have moved from Western style to whatever hole (or non-hole) in the ground is available. Even some of the Western toilets comes with questionable conditions. Although the travel is a little rustic at times, we’ve had some amazing experiences. We haven’t been suffering for comforts at the hotels; just once you are out and about the amenities become a little scarcer. But for whatever challenges we’ve experience there is a constant reminder of how much worse life could be as I once again faced when i got off off the bus at our half-way mark. We had gone through a few bottles of water (makes me sad to admit) plus some snacks on the bus. I gathered our garbage, including the plastic bottles, to throw out. In this part of the world, the recycling is done by unemployed people picking through the garbage collecting bottles, cans and paper to be turned in for money. A very old, very tiny woman was crouched beside the garbage can drinking some water out of a plastic cup with ice – someone must have given it to her. As I went to throw the garbage away, I remembered she could get money for the bottles so I placed the garbage bag beside her. She looked at me with gratitude – for my garbage! Makes you want to cry. So I dug out the mystery bun from the bus and gave that to her too. She thanked me in the common Cambodian manner – hands in prayer with a bow. Yep I’ll take my sweaty, bumpy bus ride any day of the week.
 
On our last day of Angkor, Peter rallied for a morning tour of some of the lesser visited temples. At least that is the theory. Only one was truly quiet and peaceful. We headed to Preah Khan in the morning. It is similar layout to Ta Prohm but is better preserved somehow. It was a maze of rooms and passageways that you could pick your way through. We had a good luck blessing from a very sweet looking nun and a short guided tour of some of the harder to find carvings. Beautiful expansive temple nestled in the jungle.

West Entrance to Preah Khan

East Gate - Preah Khan

And then off to the grande finale – Banteay Srey or Temple of Women. The claim is this is the best representation of carved stone art in the world. The small sandstone temple was packed with tourists, and for good reason. The carvings were so incredibly detailed and well preserved it was hard to believe they were real. I wanted to explore every inch of the place but the noon sun was punishing and Peter’s health was still in question so we did a fairly quick loop before heading back to the pool. If you can afford about 4 or 5 days at Angkor it is worthwhile. Mostly because it is impossible to see everything in a day and it is tough to go all day in the blazing heat. There is so much to see at Angkor and each temple holds its own charm. I’m so incredibly lucky to have seen this spectacular world wonder. It is definitely worth the effort.

Banteay Srey

The crowds were insane though